Surf’s up 

Writen by Gerry Lopez

One thing you never forget about surfing is the first wave you ride. It’s a feeling that is almost indescribable in words because it is such a complex rush of sensations and emotions all blended together.

One thing for certain is that it feels good. Another thing is that it’s often the beginning of some kind of drastic change in life ultimately winding up with most of your waking thoughts being about how to get more surf. With surfing becoming more popular and crowds increasing, the true meaning of surfing starts to get lost in the frenzy. First and foremost, surfing is about having fun but the more you do it, you begin to understand that the experience of it can be as deep and meaningful as you want to make it.